March 10th, 2011

The Red Tie Project

The Red Pump Project

HIV/AIDS is an epidemic that needs a lot of attention.  Did you know there is an awareness day devoted specifically to how if affects women? Contrary to the stereotype, HIV/AIDS is not a disease that affects only homosexual males. It touches the lives of women everywhere, and in turn touches our lives.

  • Did you know that every 9 ½ minutes in the US someone is infected with HIV?
  • Did you also know that every 35 minutes, a woman tests positive for HIV in the United States?

Those are pretty chilling statistics, but every year on March 10th the United States will recognize the day as National Women and Girls HIV/AIDS Awareness Day.  It is a national initiative to raise awareness about HIV/AIDS, specifically the impact it has on women and girls everywhere. Prevention and treatment measures have increased, but women still account for 27% of all new AIDS diagnoses, with African-American women making up 66% of that group.

The Red Pump Project™ raises awareness about the impact of HIV/AIDS on women and girls. Their mission is to prevent HIV through education, and open communication about the issues that surround sexual and reproductive health.

How can you help? Rock a Red Tie! Tell your wife, sister, mother, aunts, girlriends or WHOEVER to Rock the Red Pumps! The red shoe is a symbol of empowerment meant to encourage the women suffering with and affected by HIV/AIDS. If you get a compliment on your snazzy red tie then tell them why you’re wearing them! Share the word and spread awareness. It’s something everyone can do.

If you’re a blogger you can head over to The Red Pump Project™ website and get a badge to raise awareness as well.  If you’re not a blogger, tweet about it, facebook it, and of course, wear your red tie! Sharing in any way that you can will help the cause.Learn more about the Project and find other ways to spread awareness and get involved here.

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By Sarah in Tie Trends, Uncategorized | Permalink | No Comments »

August 18th, 2010

Fall Trends to Watch Out For

It’s not too early to start thinking about fall, right? Heck, it got down to 70 degrees a couple of days ago. Next thing you now, I’ll be bundling up in pants and a jacket. While on the hunt for clothes this fall, keep these trends in mind:

Band of outsiders military shirt

1. The big trend this year is military – pants and shirts with parachute or cargo pockets have trickled down to retail.

A camouflage sport coat

In addition to pockets, look for camouflage prints and bomber jackets.

Timex field watch

If you’re on a budget, stop by a surplus store for accessories: webbed belts and field watches are cheap ways to achieve this look.

How to wear a knit tie

2. Expect wool ties to continue to surge in popularity, so don’t get caught without one – they’re this year’s skinny tie. Knit wool ties are warm and casual, so pair them with jeans, an oxford shirt or a blazer.

Wool ties at Bergdorf

Woven wool ties, which resemble more closely traditional silk ties, are more formal, and perfectly acceptable with suits.

Menswear designer thom browne

3. The slim fitting suit has slowly been making a comeback, thanks to the influence of designers Thom Browne and Tom Ford (Who outfitted Daniel Craig, shown below).

Daniel Craig as James Bond

When it comes to suits, fit, not quality, is the name of the game. Look for cuts that actually show your waist, instead of the traditional “sack suit.”

The Duke of Windsor in a double breasted suit

4. Along with formal wear in general, the double-breasted suit is resurging.  As you can see, both sides feature buttons, some which aren’t mean to be tied. It can exaggerate your chest and shoulders as long as it’s not too big. Double-breasted jackets should also have a peak lapel instead of a notch lapel.

Military shirt photo credit: Selectism

Watch photo credit: SLAMXHYPE

Thom Browne photo credit: Huffpo

Daniel Craig photo credit: NY Daily Mag

Knit Tie photo credit: Esquire

Woven tie and Camo jacket photo credit: GQ

Duke of Windsor photo credit: Luxury Insider

Popularity: 12% [?]

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By Michael in General Fashion, Tie Trends | Permalink | No Comments »

July 20th, 2010

The Slim Fit

The “slim fit” is in, and that makes me happy. Because it means that men are finally paying attention to how their clothes fit them. And what do you know, we actually have a waist!

Designer Thom Browne and a slim fit suit

Thom Browne, “inventor” of the slim fit.

What is the “slim fit,” exactly? No, you don’t need to wear pants half a foot above your shoes.  What designers make is meant to influence the retailers you buy from. The slim fit is about showing off your middle – the shape of your chest above it, and the shape of your legs below it.

Based on selections from trad American clothier Brooks Brothers, Thom Browne is influencing retailers. BB, traditionally a preppy, conservative staple, has introduced extra slim fit as well. Look at BB’s slim fit chinos:

slim fit brooks brothers chinos

To achieve this, shirts and jackets closely hug the waist, chest, and arms, while pants are tighter around the legs and break at the top of the shoe. The same applies for dinner jackets. A skinny tie typically accompanies the slim fit.

Everything else essentially stays regular: Shirts still vary in formality and collar design, suits still vary in lapel shape and button arrangement, pants still vary in waist design. Check out these slim fitting shirts from ASOS:

slim fit dress shirts

Here’s what I like about the slim fit:

  1. It shows that you care about clothing. Baggy clothes are the mark of a man who doesn’t know what he’s doing.
  2. It shows off your physique. (Which is why it isn’t for everyone.)
  3. It forces men to know how clothes fit their body. Wearing a “sack suit” doesn’t require much courage, just willingness to be measured. If you’re going to wear a suit that hugs your back and chest, you’ve got to learn to notice the tension on the back.

Daniel Craig and Hugh Jackman in slim fitting suits

Daniel Craig, though not an early adopter of the slim fit, brought a fit to the silver screen that is achievable by non-movie stars, even those without Craig’s bod.

As mentioned before, there are some downsides to the slim fit. If your middle is not so trim, you probably don’t want to show it off. Moreover, slim is bold – I wouldn’t wear pants that break before my shoes to a job interview.

However, if you’re dressing to impress a lady friend or go out at night with friends, slim fit can set you miles apart, with the help of a couple of inches.

Thom Browne photo credit: LAist

BB chinos photo credit: BB

Shirts photo credit: ASOS

Craig and Jackman photo credit: PromAdvice

Popularity: 6% [?]

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By Michael in Tie Trends | Permalink | 1 Comment »

July 14th, 2010

The Tie Tuck – Yes or No?

The days of waistcoats are gone. Men frequently wear jackets unbuttoned, or forgo the jacket completely while sporting a tie. This leads to a predicament: What to do with a tie that flops around in the wind and potentially endangers you?

The American answer is the tie clip, formerly emblazoned with logos and colors, now delegated to simple gold and silver designs. Other accessories include the tie pin, which punctures the tie, the tie bar, which, unlike the tie clip, extends completely across the tie, and the tie chain, which attaches the tie to a clip on a shirt button.

Sans hardware, the final option is to tuck the tie in, which has jumped from practicality to fashion statement. Moderate dressers can get away with solely tucking in the narrow end, especially if its longer than the wide end. However, tucking entire ties into pants or shirts has been creeping in popularity for the past couple of years.

Derrick Miller and his tie tucked into his pants
A skinny black tie tucked into a shirt
A man with a tie tucked into his pants

Tucking ties into pants has been the subject of much debate among menswear enthusiasts, as Sartorially Inclined attests. I’m not a big fan. In all these pictures, the ties appear too long. Moreover, the tucking makes the tie poof out, and not the stylish poof formed by a tie clip. It’s a saggy poof, a roll, that forms at the waist.

Sean Connery with his tie tucked into his pants

So here’s my say: If one’s pants are at the natural waist (like Connery, pictured) and one’s shirt fit and waist is slim enough to avoid any unsightly rumples at the bottom (unlike Connery), a tie tucked into pants may be acceptable. Nice skinny tie, Connery.

Now onto the second question…Is it ok to tuck your tie into your shirt?

A tie tucked into a shirt

Tucking ties into shirts is a slightly different matter. On one hand, unlike the pant tuck, I don’t think the shirt tuck can ever look good. It looks abrupt and unfinished. On the other hand, tucking a tie into a shirt is actually practical; it can save your tie at hazardous lunches. Men’s style should never be handicapped by practicality. One shouldn’t be punished because the lunch one’s being served, or the distance between the table and the booth one’s sitting on. However, I would refrain from tucking ties in shirts anywhere outside eating establishments.

Are there any other options? Like the answer to a prayer, I found a post at Permanent Style that detailed his “dreamed up tie tuck.” Simply fold the narrow end in and out of a button, then thread it through the label loop as normal. Conclusion? There are many alternatives to tucking your tie into your pants or shirt. Try them before you try the tuck.

Photos #1-3 and #6: Sartorialist

Photo #4: Sartorially Inclined

Photo #5: Brandish.tv

Photo #7: Put This On

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By Michael in Tie Advice, Tie Trends | Permalink | 17 Comments »

June 30th, 2010

Ken’s Style in Toy Story 3: Puh-leeze Barbie, That’s Not An Ascot

EDIT: It’s been brought to my attention that when Barbie says, “Nice ascot,” it could be a clever way of disguising Barbie’s compliment about Ken’s behind. That’s possible, but I don’t think she had actually seen the backside at that point in the movie.

I’d been looking forward to seeing Toy Story 3 solely on the basis of Ken’s outfit. Well, maybe not solely. But this screen gives me much to chew on:

The stylish ken doll from toy story 3

  • Boat shoes without socks (great look, though I guess it’s easy when your manufacturer doesn’t provide you with socks)
  • Shorts that shouldn’t be pleated (though the rolled cuff look is totally in)
  • A very interesting shirt. I’d like it if:  1. His collar wasn’t popped (he’s in a daycare, thus he has no need to shield his plastic visage from the wind)  2. The top wasn’t unbuttoned. I understand, Ken, that your plastic mold gives you a rock hard bod. But please, one button is enough.  3. It wasn’t a leopard print. Ok, so I dislike everything except the color.

To top it off, Ken’s got something tied around his neck. My first reaction was that it’s a neckerchief. It’s tied to the side, it’s fairly narrow, without a lot of width variation…

Barbie and Ken meet

Then I saw Toy Story 3. In the first scene with Ken, love-struck Barbie remarks, “Nice ascot.”

WHAT.  C’MON BARBIE. (let’s go party). That’s not an ascot, is it? My immediate reaction was pleasure, since I knew that “ascot” would soon enter the vocabulary of millions.  But is Barbie spreading false notions about men’s style?

  1. Unfolded ascots are wide at both ends. Imagine the wide end of the tie x 2, with a little skinny section in the middle. Ken’s neckwear appears to be much skinnier. One end seems to be a little wide, but nowhere near the shape of an ascot. Heck, it almost looks like an oddly shaped bow tie.
  2. Most ascots are folded in front. Like Ken, men wear ascots under their collar, but they look like this:

Robert Downey Jr. rocks an ascot

Ken appears to have simply folded his in a scarf-ish knot on the side. However, it’s a little too small to be a scarf. I think it’s a neckerchief.

For the final verdict on Barbie’s knowledge of men’s style, I went straight to the source, the movie website. “His accessories include matching scarf, sensible loafers, and a fashion-forward gold belt.”

Huh. I’m not a scarf expert, though I do find it odd that Ken would wear a scarf in a room unplagued by any sort of weather. (Remember the popped collar? Pointless.) Because, after all, mens wear is practical at its core.

I guess me AND Barbie have some reading to do. Or maybe Pixar needs to hire a proper dandy as a costume consultant, since that does not look like a scarf. And Barbie…you were way off.

PS – blue loafers? Really?

Movie pics photo credit: Disney

RDJ photo credit: I Watch Stuff

UNK6TYFNNVS6

Popularity: 10% [?]

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By Michael in Celebrity ties, Tie Trends | Permalink | 3 Comments »

June 29th, 2010

Try A Wool Tie On For Size

I admit, wool ties are more of a fall trend. But hey, fall is only a couple of months away. Better to buy them when they’re not in such high demand, right?

Moreover, summer is a time for casual dress. Casual dress can be difficult for some guys, who are afraid of anything beyond khakis and polos.

Luckily, wool ties provide the perfect bridge between formal and casual. They’re neckwear, naturally formal, but they add contrast with their texture. There are two types of wool ties – knitted and woven.

knit ties are the perfect casual neckwear

Knitted is the perfect casual tie, as featured in Men’s Flair article written years before knit ties were “in.” If you want to break out of the khakis and polos mode, try blue jeans (without the rips), a more informal oxford and a knit tie. Substitute the knitted for woven and it becomes a little bit more formal. To find a good oxford for casual wear, make sure it’s not made out of worsted wool. One bit of advice – look for a collars with buttoned tips.

If you’re looking for a casual way to wear a sports coat, especially one  made out of a casual material like tweed, (as Will from A Suitable Wardrobe writes,) you can pair a woven tie with jeans, or with more “wrinkly” khaki pants. Just be sure to avoid suit coat jackets, especially wool. Look for sport coats, which will feature pouch pockets, instead of simple slits.

kobe bryant sports a formal wool tie

Woven ties can be worn with a suit; you just have to be sure to keep in mind its colors. If it sports “normal” silk colors, a look like Kobe’s is stylish.

an earthy ensemble with a woven wool tie

If it’s more earthy, stick to less formal jackets, like this one pictured in GQ.

Knit ties photo credit: Men’s Flair

Kobe photo credit: GQ

Popularity: 5% [?]

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By Michael in Tie Advice, Tie Trends | Permalink | 2 Comments »

June 22nd, 2010

Wearing Bow Ties: Who, When, and With What

I’ve written previously about how bow ties are back “in.” However, many men still exhibit apprehension about tying a bow around their necks. In order to banish your doubts, here’s a practical, generalized, and possibly completely misguided guide to wearing bow ties:

Who should wear bow ties:

  • Anyone younger than 30 or older than 55. Sorry, but middle aged men dressing for work are forever doomed to neck ties.
  • Educators. If you’re a high school teacher, your dress code might include a tie. Since your bosses won’t judge you based on your neckwear, you might askanye west sporting a bow tie well shock your pupils with a decorative bow. If you’re a tenured professor, there’s no excuse not to wear unorthodox clothes.
  • Dandies. “Dandy” is a term for someone who takes clothing very seriously, always wears a pocket square, etc. Dandies completely disregard how people perceive them; instead, they heed only the clothes themselves. Bow ties are awesome clothes, so dandies should wear them. They probably already are.

When should you wear bow ties:

  • To proms and fraternity/sorority formals. Most of the attendees will have no clue how to dress. Anyone wearing a bow tie will quickly achieve legendary status.
  • To dinner parties. If conversation is stalling, wait for them to mention your bow tie. It will be mentioned eventually.
  • To get your picture taken. 20 years from now, anyone who glances at a picture of you wearing a bow tie will label you a sartorial god. Especially those who’ve never met you, but are looking at your picture: Your reputation will precede you.

With what should you wear bow ties:

  • Boring white shirts. Regular bow ties are loud enough, forgo the striped and checkers.
  • Jeans and a casual white shirt. By casual, I mean slightly wrinkled.
  • Khakis and a blazer. Suits are conservative, bow ties aren’t.

Final piece of advice: Pre-tied bow ties are synonymous with clip-on ties. Avoid both.

Photo credit: dresslikekanyewest.com

Popularity: 3% [?]

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By Michael in Other Neckwear, Tie Advice, Tie Trends | Permalink | No Comments »

June 15th, 2010

An Ode to the Tie Clip

Last Sunday, I wore a tie clip. Much like bow ties and pocket squares, tie clips (or tie bars, or tie clasps) have dropped in usage in the past half-century. As Paul Devlin wrote in Slate three years ago, tie bars served as badges for employees and members of organizations. Then, as casual dress invaded places of work and leisure, metal bars attached to ties began to disappear. Luckily, the outlook is good for uncommon formal accessories. Bow ties aren’t nerdy, they’re hip. Pocket squares aren’t unnecessary, but the sign of a man dedicated to his appearance, as they should be.

And, much like bow ties and pocket squares, I think tie clasps will come “back in.”  Not only is fashion trending back towards formal wear, but tie bars are plain easy to use. It’s too early to say whether the detailed, colorful tie clips of old, like the one pictured, will make a return. But, pick up a silver plated and gold plated tie clip, and you’ve basically covered, in terms of matching. Sure, you can get detailed; but, at this point, tie clips are so rare that even a simple design will turn heads. (As they grow more popular, perhaps more than two clip will be adequate for a proper collection. Still, the number of possible tie bar designs/colors is dwarfed by the pocket square’s variety.) To top it off, tie clips prevent your tie from dipping in soup/salad/anything it shouldn’t be dipping in.

Where you place a tie clasp is vital to its appearance. If you’re dressing conservatively, make the jacket cover the tie clip when buttoned. This should be between the fourth and fifth shirt button. However, for more risky attire, pushing a tie clip to the third or second shirt button creates a sort of “bubbling” tie. Similar to the puffed pocket square, a tie with a high tie bar is a piece of fabric that’s desperate to escape the confines of the traditional suit. You can even scoot your tie up for extra “oomph.” Since I didn’t take a picture of myself last Sunday to demonstrate the power of a high tie clip, this Street Etiquette shot will have to do:

As you can see, tie bars are an easy method to add gloss to an outfit. I found my tie clips at Kohl’s. Just look for a department store that sells cufflinks, and they’ll probably sell tie clips too. The Slate article is three years old. His hope of a re-emergence of tie clips is closer than ever. Mark my words, they’ll be back.

Tie bar photo credit: Amazon

Vintage clip photo credit: Worthpoint

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By Michael in Tie Accessories, Tie Trends | Permalink | No Comments »

June 8th, 2010

Pocket Squares Are Back In

Possibly inspired by Mad Men, the pocket square, just a folded-up handkerchief in silk or linen, is back. In fact, it’s so popular, Esquire declared the pocket square too popular, and thus unfashionable.

That’s going a little far. Pocket squares are another manly tool to:

  • set yourself apart
  • add extra contrast to your appearance
  • coordinate colors on your shirt or tie.

If you’re wearing a cheaper linen handkerchief, you might even consider using it to blow your nose. But never silk. Let’s get that out of the way first.

As you might have deduced, there are two primary pocket square materials: silk and linen. Silk generally goes better with dark suits, in colder times. Linen is better for summer outfits, especially lighter colors. The biggest factor in pocket square material is texture.
As Cad & The Dandy writes, if you’re wearing a sleek silk tie, go with linen. If you’ve wearing a wool tie and tweed suit, silk is the better option. No tie? Silk.

One misconception about pocket squares is that they should “match” your tie. Please, coordinate is the better term. Find a common color in both. And, for the love of fashion, don’t buy a tie with a matching pocket square. That’s just dorky. Like matching ties and shirts, make sure the pocket square and tie don’t share similar patterns. In fact, you can even use a shared color between your handkerchief and your shirt, if your shirt is louder than your tie. If you’re dressing conservatively, just use white.

Speaking of conservative dressing, the fold matters too. Don’t be dorky again and buy a pre-folded pocket square.

If you really like Mad Men, you probably want to re-create their pocket square fold, known as the “TV Fold.” This is the most conservative choice. Valet provides good instructions to fold a TV fold pocket square:

  • Fold a pressed handkerchief into quarters.
  • Fold the resulting square into thirds.
  • Bring the bottom edge three-quarters of the way up.
  • Tuck in, unfolded side out and an inch of fabric visible.

But, as A Suitable Wardrobe decries, the TV fold is the “refuge of the insecure.” Go ahead and be bold with a puffed pocket square. Known as “crushing,” Men’s Flair demonstrates picking up a handkerchief, inverting it, then stuffing it in your pocket.

Art of Manliness made a useful video about all three folds mentioned:YouTube Preview Image

The third option is a compromise between the two, the “one corner fold.” Bring opposite ends together, make a triangle. Then bring the two bottom corners toward each other until they meet each others’ sides. I’ll let Art of Manliness finish the directions to fold a triangle pocket square:

  • You should end up with a long rectangle with a point at the top. It looks sort of like a fence slat.
  • Fold the bottom towards the top, but not all the way.
  • Place it in your suit. Adjust until you get the desired amount of point coming out of the pocket.

The first time you wear a pocket square, you’ll fidget with it. This will draw unnecessary attention to it, much worse than the positive attention paid to the extra bit of contrast in your suit pocket. Carry on, eventually, your suit will feel naked without one. Heck, even crazy dictators wear them:

Clark Gable photo credit: The Cad & The Dandy

Mad Men photo credit: iVillage

Hussein photo credit: AP

Popularity: 18% [?]

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By Michael in Celebrity ties, Tie Accessories, Tie Trends | Permalink | 2 Comments »

June 1st, 2010

6 Reasons You Should Join the Growing Group of Bow tie Wearers

I almost wore a bow tie to senior prom. I should have, because I would have undoubtedly became an instant hit. Bow ties are back in. If you can learn to tie a bow tie, you’ll attract attention for such bold and unconventional neckwear.

Bow tie sales are growing as they grace the necks of those beyond the typical wearers, academics. Here are six reasons you should ditch the traditional necktie in favor of its more unique cousin:

1. You’ll join the ranks of famous bow tie wearers like Winston Churchill, James Bond, and Doctor Who:

doctor who matt smith bow tie bowtie

Actor Matt Smith will play the role of Doctor Who in the 6th season of the beloved TV series. For a similar bow tie from ABCNeckties, check out our red or orange-red paisley bow tie.

2. Bow ties scream confidence and individuality. When less than 5% of men wear bow ties, they attract attention—even if people don’t remember your name, they’ll surely recognize the unique neckwear. red orange bow tie doctor who

3. Bow ties are safer. Doctors and mechanics would be wise to substitute the bow tie for a lengthy, uncontrollable, and possibly dangerous neck tie. (In the movie Who Killed Roger Rabbit, one character is nearly killed via tie strangulation)

4. Bow ties are easier to keep clean. One of the first hard lessons I learned at college was how to eat without spoiling your tie. Imagine going to lunch and never having to worry about spilling dressing/wine/salad/ketchup on your nice silk neckwear. If your lunchtime acrobatics somehow manage to spoil your bow tie, just reverse it.

6. Bow ties travel simpler. You can fit more of them in a space, you don’t have to worry about hanging them, and if you have to take them off, they fit neatly in your pocket.

Should you decide the rock this classic neckwear, pair it with simple shirts and pants—the bow tie will take care of the loudness, even with a simple pattern. Be ready to accept compliments…from both sexes.

If you have a bow tie and want to learn how to tie it, check out a bow tie designer’s instructions at the WSJ.

Doctor Who photo credit: www.johnnyikon.com

Popularity: 25% [?]

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By Michael in Celebrity ties, Other Neckwear, Tie Trends | Permalink | 2 Comments »

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