August 20th, 2010

Tie Accessory: The Collar Pin

Early in the century, shirt collars had the bad habit of rolling up as you wore them. One solution was to pin a safety pin underneath the tie knot, pinning the collars down and propping the up the knot.

Roger Stering from Mad Men sports a collar pin

Like other tie accessories, such as tie clips, the collar pin has utilitarian origins. Similar to other tie accessories, it became a fashion statement in the 30s, thanks to the focus it puts on the tie knot (see Frank Sinatra.) And, much like other tie accessories, it experienced times of popularity in the 50s, (see Roger Sterling from Mad Men) and 80s (See Gordon Gekko, from Wall Street.)

A safety pin worn as a collar pin

I think it’s too early to declare whether this particular shirt jewelry will experience as resurgence similar to the tie clips, but it’s not too early to hope.

Frank Sinatra pin collar

As written by Gentleman’s Gazette, there are three kinds of collar pins. The first is just a safety pin. This is a little rakish if visible, ie, worn on the very edge of your collar. However, it’s the most common style, if snug up against the knot.

The second kind has little clips on the edge which grab the collar. This is the moderate choice.

Michael Douglad and Charlie Sheen in Wall Street

The third looks like a dumbbell. This is the most formal option, and not recommended by me. Why? Because it requires a special shirt with little holes in the collar, that the pin threads through. Why limit the collar pin look to one shirt? Plus, that one shirt will be a little difficult to track down.

Should you choose to wear one of these, it forms a nice crease on your collar and accentuates your tie. You’ll be advised to wear a small knot and preferably a small collar, like the rounded club collar. I think a spread collar and a Windsor knot might be too bold.  But since I’ve never seen it tried, I guess that’s my homework tonight. Opinions?

Safety pin photo credit: Put This On

Frank Sinatra photo credit: A Suitable Wardrobe

Roger Sterling photo credit: Components of Enthusiasm

Wall Street photo credit: IMDB

Popularity: 14% [?]

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By Michael in Other Neckwear | Permalink | 1 Comment »

August 16th, 2010

The Pros and Cons of Tie Alternatives

There are plenty of reasons men list for not wanting to wear ties. They get dirty at lunch, they flop in the wind, they’re too tight, etc. Though I think all these excuses are unwarranted, I can understand preferring to wear a different neckwear instead. So…here are your options, in order of formality:

Cravat:

One way to tie a cravat

Advantages:

  • A zillion ways to tie it
  • Good for early 19th century dress-up

Disadvantage:

  • Only good for early 19th century dress-up

Bow tie:

doctor who matt smith bow tie bowtie

Advantages:

  • You can’t get it dirty or caught in something
  • It makes you look smart

Disadvantages:

  • Hard to tie
  • Could make you look like pretentious

Ascot:

how to tie an ascot tie

Advantage:

  • Lets you open your collar

Disadvantage:

Neckerchief:

Ken from toy story and his handkerchief

Advantages:

  • Soaks up sweat around your neck
  • Easy to tie
  • You probably have one lying around

Disadvantage:

  • Could make you look like a woman…or a Ken Doll

Bolo tie:

secretary of the interior sporting a cowboy hat and bolo tie

Advantages:

  • Badass
  • Permits you to wear a cowboy hat with a suit

Disadvantage:

  • Should only be worn by actual cowboys

Scarf:

brad_pitt wearing a scarf

Advantages:

  • Easy to find in stores
  • Keeps you warm

Disadvantages:

  • Will make you look like a woman (Sorry Brad)
  • More easily caught in turbo engines than ties

So, pick your poison. No matter what, people will stare  longer than normal. But if that’s a positive, pick a neckwear and run with it.

Cravat photo credit: Etsy

Doctor Who photo credit: johnnyikon

Ascot photo credit: Esquire

Ken doll photo credit: Disney

Ken Salazar photo credit: WashPo

Brad Pitt photo credit: Examiner

Popularity: 9% [?]

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By Michael in Other Neckwear | Permalink | No Comments »

August 3rd, 2010

The Bolo Tie, Part 2

Last post, I talked about a uniquely American fashion influence: The bolo tie. I don’t know if it’s spread beyond America, but hey, who cares. We’re America.

Montana Governor brian schweitzer wearing a bolo tie

I do know one place the bolo tie is big: Montana. Its governor, Brian Schweitzer, spoke up a couple of years ago about a case halfway across the country, when a Maryland teen was denied a diploma on account of wearing a bolo tie to graduation, not a “real tie.”

So what am I getting to? My dad’s from Montana, and bought a bolo tie from a small-town ranch store about a decade ago:

The bolo tie

A closeup view of the bolo tie

As you can see, the aglets are in need of shining. Nevertheless, I decided I was going to try it on. I realize that I’m not a bolo-tie wearing Westerner like Ben Nighthorse or Bill Richardson. But I might as well try.

Wearing a bolo tie and a blue shirt

Hm…I thought the blue shirt might be a good choice for a more “ranch” look, but it didn’t really work. Time to borrow my dad’s 501s and break out the costume:

Wearing a bolo tie and cowboy hat

Look at that cowboy swag. I’m about ready to rope me some cattle (or whatever the heck you call it.) The hat is also from Montana, probably from the same store my dad bought the bolo tie from. The cord jacket isn’t cowboy-ish at all. It’s American Eagle, purchased at Goodwill. At least the belt is mine. And yes, that’s an Eagle Scout buckle. It’s…uh…the only buckle I have.

But let’s face it, I don’t look like I’m from anywhere west of the Mississippi. Maybe bolo ties will become fashionable someday. At this point, they’re marks of Western pride and heritage, neither which I possess much of. I’m in costume.

Wearing a bolo tie, a cowboy hat, going on my ipod

So if you’re ever out west and you see someone with a bolo tie engrossed in their phone, tell them to take the damn hat off and go back to Indianapolis, the flattest place on earth.

Brian Schweitzer photo credit: Jerek Wolcott

Popularity: 10% [?]

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By Michael in Other Neckwear | Permalink | No Comments »

July 26th, 2010

The Bolo Tie, Part 1

As World War II raged on, and the size and intricacy of cravats was replaced by the simple neck tie, an American contribution to menswear was, literally, being forged. Victort Cedarstaff, an Arizona silversmith, donned a sliver-trimmed band around his hat. Since he didn’t want to lose the band when the hat kept slipping off, he looped the band around his collar. A friend remarked, “That’s a nice-looking tie you’re wearing, Vic,” according to an Arizona newspaper. Cedarstaff soon fashioned the first “bola” tie, which comes from boleadora, an Argentine lariat. The bolo was born.

Bruce Springsteen wearing a bolo tie on the cover of tunnel of love

A southwest favorite, it’s a leather strand connected by a buckle in the front, with aglets hanging down on the ends of the strands. Based on the pictures I’ve seen, it’s worn with a suit, in place of a tie. It’s currently the official neckwear of three states: Arizona, New Mexico and Texas.

the patent for the bolo tie arizona

This is a diagram from Cedarstaff’s patent, filed in 1959. The diagram lacks a buckle, though the text mentions a “rigid front plate.”  One oddity I’ve noticed about bolo ties is that there’s no clear rule about whether the front plate/buckle should rest over the collar button or below it, like a traditional tie knot. In the previous picture, the cover of his album, Tunnel of Love, The Boss wears his bolo tie under his collar button. On the other hand, Buddy Ebsen, who played Jed Clampett in Beverly Hillbillies, wears his on top of his collar button. (Though the guy on the right is wearing his under the button)

Buddy ebsen wearing a bolo tie

From what I’ve seen, the bolo tie is most popular with older men in western and southwestern states. Ken Salazar, former Colorado senator and current Secretary of the Interior, falls into this mold. However, it’s the only picture I’ve seen of a bolo tie next to a President. (Though I wouldn’t be surprised if George Bush didn’t wear one at some point.) As you can see, Salazar wears his above his collar button.

secretary of the interior sporting a cowboy hat and bolo tie

In discussions about menswear, the question is often asked, “Can I wear this?” It’s usually in the context of a clothing item that might be practical or widespread in a different time or place, but rare, odd, or even dandyish today. Men should dress well, but they should not dress up, in a costume. So is a bolo tie too much of a costume?

A princeton student wearing a bolo tie

The most common answer is, “only if you’re a cowboy or you live out West.” The bolo tie isn’t practical for a time or place, but it does carry certain connotations. The reasoning behind that common answer is, don’t try to imply what you’re not, ie, a cowboy.

Yet, I’ve never worn my boat shoes on a boat, I don’t wear ties to keep warm and I have little need to show of my white cuffs to separate myself from the blue cuffs of the working class. Point being, style eventually sheds old connotations and uses and becomes something you wear because people think it looks good. When men’s style experts say, “don’t wear that,” they don’t mean, “it’s not practical,” they mean, “it’s not in style.”

Will bolo ties ever become “style?” Well, maybe if Obama wears one.

Stay tuned next week for the next installment!

The Boss photo credit: Poster Guide

Buddy Ebsen photo credit: The Official Buddy Ebsen Website

Salazar photo credit: Reuters

Black and white photo credit: The Trad

Popularity: 39% [?]

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By Michael in Other Neckwear | Permalink | 3 Comments »

June 22nd, 2010

Wearing Bow Ties: Who, When, and With What

I’ve written previously about how bow ties are back “in.” However, many men still exhibit apprehension about tying a bow around their necks. In order to banish your doubts, here’s a practical, generalized, and possibly completely misguided guide to wearing bow ties:

Who should wear bow ties:

  • Anyone younger than 30 or older than 55. Sorry, but middle aged men dressing for work are forever doomed to neck ties.
  • Educators. If you’re a high school teacher, your dress code might include a tie. Since your bosses won’t judge you based on your neckwear, you might askanye west sporting a bow tie well shock your pupils with a decorative bow. If you’re a tenured professor, there’s no excuse not to wear unorthodox clothes.
  • Dandies. “Dandy” is a term for someone who takes clothing very seriously, always wears a pocket square, etc. Dandies completely disregard how people perceive them; instead, they heed only the clothes themselves. Bow ties are awesome clothes, so dandies should wear them. They probably already are.

When should you wear bow ties:

  • To proms and fraternity/sorority formals. Most of the attendees will have no clue how to dress. Anyone wearing a bow tie will quickly achieve legendary status.
  • To dinner parties. If conversation is stalling, wait for them to mention your bow tie. It will be mentioned eventually.
  • To get your picture taken. 20 years from now, anyone who glances at a picture of you wearing a bow tie will label you a sartorial god. Especially those who’ve never met you, but are looking at your picture: Your reputation will precede you.

With what should you wear bow ties:

  • Boring white shirts. Regular bow ties are loud enough, forgo the striped and checkers.
  • Jeans and a casual white shirt. By casual, I mean slightly wrinkled.
  • Khakis and a blazer. Suits are conservative, bow ties aren’t.

Final piece of advice: Pre-tied bow ties are synonymous with clip-on ties. Avoid both.

Photo credit: dresslikekanyewest.com

Popularity: 3% [?]

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By Michael in Other Neckwear, Tie Advice, Tie Trends | Permalink | No Comments »

June 19th, 2010

Cravats – Forgotten Neckwear

For most men, neckwear is limited to normal ties. They might wear a bow tie once in a while. However, a look through neckwear history reveals vast varieties of what we now call the cravat – a scarf-like dressing for the neck.

The first cravat doesn’t have a proper name. It was inspired by Croatian mercenaries during the Thirty Years War, then picked up by the French. The grandfather of men’s neckwear, the first cravat was bold, and, well, poofy. King Louis XIV is pictured with one of these early cravats.

One of my favorite examples of the mid 17th century cravats is the lavalliere – allegedly created by Louise de la Valliere, a mistress of Louis XIV, the lavaliere was like a bow tie but 10x more awesome.

In 1692, the Battle of Steinkirk inspired longer, looser cravats tied into waistcoat buttons. The story is that the French soldiers didn’t have time to properly tie their cravats.

As the Fashion Historian writes, in the 18th century, stock cravats began to replace scarf cravats. The stock was stiff linen folded around the neck. Adorning the stock were commonly the jabon, a frilly cloth hanging over the chest, and the solitaire, a black band over the stock.

The 19 century was a time of innovation, including new cravat knots. They were larger, smaller, looser and tighter.

Phillip Wendell, from the middle of the 19th century

General George Custer, from the same time period.

The Neckclothitania, a satirical pamphlet from the early 19th century, detailed methods of tying cravats:

During this period, the day cravat, aka, the ascot (on the left) and other styles of formal cravats emerged, which can still be seen in fashion circles and wedding attire. (And…Roland Martin + Jon Stewart) Modern-day cravats resemble a tie with the large end on both ends. Unfortunately, they’ve been overwhelmed by bow ties, and, later in this century, ties.

You should consider wearing a day ascot in place of a tie, or a formal cravat in place of a black bow tie, lest the entire style of cravats become forgotten.

King Louis XIV photo credit: Wikipedia

Lavalliere photo credit: Dress Space

Steinkirk photo credit: Scott Robinson

Stock tie photo credit: Fashion Historian

Custer and Wendell photo credit: Old Pictures

Neckclothitania photo credit: Wikipedia

Modern cravats photo credit: My Dream Day

Popularity: 11% [?]

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By Michael in Other Neckwear | Permalink | 2 Comments »

June 17th, 2010

What’s the Difference Between an Ascot and a Cravat?

What’s an ascot, what’s a cravat and what’s the difference? Spend enough time reading about men’s fashion and you’ll run across these terms in discussions of neckwear. Unfortunately, they’re never really explained.

  • Ascots are more informal; they’re tied under the collar.
  • Cravat can refer to all ties.
  • There are cravat styles that aren’t ascots, ties or bow ties.

The cravat is, by definition, the original form of neckwear. It’s what ties and bow ties evolved from. It’s the style King Louis XIV adopted from Croatian mercenaries. It can even refer to all ties, including ties and bow ties. Refer to this previous post for more details on the cravat.

This is an ascot, a type of cravat:

how to tie an ascot tie

The ascot, like the tie and the bow tie, evolved from different forms of the cravat during the 19th century.  The term “ascot” comes from the Royal Ascot horse race, where men would wear a looser cravat as part of their morning dress. That’s why the ascot is often called a day cravat, as A Suitable Wardrobe calls it. It is less formal; it’s tied under the collar.

This is where it gets confusing:

When someone says cravat, they could mean the ascot, or they could mean other forms of cravat ties still remaining from the late 1800s. Here are two common examples: The first is tied with a tie, and the second is tied like an ascot but over the collar.

One way to tie a cravatOne way to tie a cravat

As you can see, what separates an ascot from a cravat is the placement, which also influences formality. Ascots are less formal than the other cravats pictured.

The biggest problem with the ascot-cravat vocabulary is that ascots are the only cravat style with their own unique name. Thus, in some people’s minds, ascots are synonymous with cravats. So instead of picking one word to describe a product, they use both and confuse the heck out of inquisitive readers.  Repeat after me: “All ascots are cravats, but not all cravats are ascots.” Keep in mind the three bullet points I presented earlier. If we work together, maybe we can not only change vocabulary, but change the world. Never hurts to dream of men everywhere wearing ascots.

Ascot photo credit: Esquire

1st cravat photo credit: fantasywaistcoats.co.uk

2nd cravat photo credit: Etsy

Popularity: 47% [?]

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By Michael in Other Neckwear | Permalink | 3 Comments »

June 1st, 2010

6 Reasons You Should Join the Growing Group of Bow tie Wearers

I almost wore a bow tie to senior prom. I should have, because I would have undoubtedly became an instant hit. Bow ties are back in. If you can learn to tie a bow tie, you’ll attract attention for such bold and unconventional neckwear.

Bow tie sales are growing as they grace the necks of those beyond the typical wearers, academics. Here are six reasons you should ditch the traditional necktie in favor of its more unique cousin:

1. You’ll join the ranks of famous bow tie wearers like Winston Churchill, James Bond, and Doctor Who:

doctor who matt smith bow tie bowtie

Actor Matt Smith will play the role of Doctor Who in the 6th season of the beloved TV series. For a similar bow tie from ABCNeckties, check out our red or orange-red paisley bow tie.

2. Bow ties scream confidence and individuality. When less than 5% of men wear bow ties, they attract attention—even if people don’t remember your name, they’ll surely recognize the unique neckwear. red orange bow tie doctor who

3. Bow ties are safer. Doctors and mechanics would be wise to substitute the bow tie for a lengthy, uncontrollable, and possibly dangerous neck tie. (In the movie Who Killed Roger Rabbit, one character is nearly killed via tie strangulation)

4. Bow ties are easier to keep clean. One of the first hard lessons I learned at college was how to eat without spoiling your tie. Imagine going to lunch and never having to worry about spilling dressing/wine/salad/ketchup on your nice silk neckwear. If your lunchtime acrobatics somehow manage to spoil your bow tie, just reverse it.

6. Bow ties travel simpler. You can fit more of them in a space, you don’t have to worry about hanging them, and if you have to take them off, they fit neatly in your pocket.

Should you decide the rock this classic neckwear, pair it with simple shirts and pants—the bow tie will take care of the loudness, even with a simple pattern. Be ready to accept compliments…from both sexes.

If you have a bow tie and want to learn how to tie it, check out a bow tie designer’s instructions at the WSJ.

Doctor Who photo credit: www.johnnyikon.com

Popularity: 25% [?]

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By Michael in Celebrity ties, Other Neckwear, Tie Trends | Permalink | 2 Comments »