July 13th, 2010

James Bond Style Review: For Your Eyes Only

In his fifth film as Bond, Roger Moore, the longest serving Bond, travels to Greece to retrieve spy equipment. Amidst the gorgeous scenery, he gets help from Carole Bouquet, who seeks revenge on the villain who’s trying to steal the equipment as well. It’s one of my favorite Bond films for those two reasons, the scenes and the costar. It can also be great inspiration for style this summer.

After a short sequence showing Bond visit the grave of Theresa Bond, his wife from OHMSS who’s murdered by SPECTRE, the real plot begins on the St. Georges of Valetta, a British spy ship. It contains ATAC, a typewriter-looking device used to communicate with missile subs. Check out the officer’s white shirt. Expect to see more like it in casual wear this fall as military-influenced clothing picks up steam.

This is a military style that hopefully won’t catch on. Keep your collars to yourself. The man is supposed to detonate ATAC when the St. George sinks. The race to retrieve ATAC commences the plot.

The Havelock clan. The father, sporting a laid-back sailor look with a rough oxford and jeans, (love the belt) is trying to find ATAC. That is, until he and his wife are gunned down. His daughter Melina vows revenge. (Melina means Honey in Greek, a reference to the 1st Bond girl)Emile Locque at the hitman's estate

The man who payed to have the Havelocks killed. I’m not sure what’s going on with his suit jacket; it appears to be double breasted with a notch lapel, though it features a very odd arrangement of buttons: “Four on four,” which means four buttons on the jacket, four buttons that are supposed to be buttoned. The more common styles, “four on six” or “two on four” leave two buttons on the top, wider apart than the other buttons, that shouldn’t be buttoned.
Captured...though not for long

Hey, it’s James Bond! Surely there’s no risk in letting him live, right? Bond, and his capturer to the right, are how you wear business casual in the summer. I don’t know if khaki suit is linen or cotton; but, either way, it beats the heat.Bond in Q's lab

I would like to take this opportunity to point out that Moore’s collar sticks out too much in the back. It should show, at most, half an inch. There, I corrected Bond’s style. Never thought I’d be able to do that!
Bond and Melina at St. Cyrils

Before he meets up with Kristatos, who, though he doesn’t know it, is behind the murder of Melina’s parents and after ATAC, Bond strolls through Corfu, Greece. This, unlike the previous picture, is how you pull off a double-breasted jacket. And no navy blazer is complete without nautical buttons…Fitting, considering Bond’s background.Two unlucky gamblers

The trademark casino scene. This one features two of the most oddest neckwear ever to grace a 007 film: A 19th century style cravat, on the left, and an enormous bow tie, on the right. Typically that bow tie style would be called “the butterfly,” though its size prompts me to label it “the pigeon.”Milos Columbos sharing a drink with Bond

Turns out, the guy Kristatos blamed Melina’s parents’ death on is a good guy. Meet Milos Colombo (played by Oscar winner Chaim Potol), Greek smuggler and Kristatos’ rival. White pants? Check. White belt? Check. Double-breasted jacket with brass buttons? Check. This is a nautical outfit. And what better pose than bringing alcohol?

Bond and Melina preparing to salvage the ATAC

Ivy Style wrote last week about yellow oxfords – underrated, underworn, and quite difficult to pull off without a tan. Luckily, that’s not a problem for a man on a boat.

Ok…there was really no way I could NOT include a screen of Q dressed as a priest.

In the rare moment that Bond isn’t sporting his Rolex Submariner (1962-1989) or Omega Seamaster (1995-present), he’s got a gadget on his wrist. The Seiko H357, as profiled on the website Bond Lifestyle, can be purchased here. Bond hands the watch to a parrot, who masquerades as Bond to PM Thatcher as Bond skinny dips with Melina.

A fitting end to a Bond movie dominated by summer and nautical influences. If you’re looking for attire to wear to the beach, or to Greece, consider For Your Eyes Only. This is one of my favorite Bond films, partly because of the Melina, whose emotional attachment to the plot and mature demeanor work perfectly with the aging Moore.

All photos taken from DVD, courtesy United Artists.

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July 2nd, 2010

James Bond Style: On Her Majesty’s Secret Service

On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, or OHMSS, as the title is usually shortened, is memorable for numerous reasons. Bond threatens to quit MI6, gets married and is played by George Lazenby, his only appearance as Bond. It’s also unique because some of its frankly ridiculous costumes.

James Bond in On Her Majesty's Secret Service

Lazenby’s first appearance as Bond features him in a cool linen (or is that cotton?) suit. Lazenby was considerably larger than Connery, he was previously a body builder. Lazenby’s acting is often criticized as the weakest point in OHMSS, which Bond critics often call an underrated development in the Bond character.

James Bond in On Her Majesty's Secret Service

No proper Bond film lacks a casino scene. Yet few dress Bond in such an extravagant tux shirt.

James Bond in On Her Majesty's Secret Service

Can Bond make anything look bad? OHMSS takes Bond to the Swiss Alps, when perennial baddie Ernst Blofeld is attempting to poison the world’s food supply or something like that. In this case, the “evil plot to destroy the world” isn’t explored very deeply. He’s wearing a skit suit in this still.

While at Blofeld’s residence, disguised as a genealogist, Bond encounters the “Angels of Death,” a group of young women Blofeld conducts food experiments on. About to visit one of them, Bond sports a kilt. I’m not really sure what to think about this.

James Bond and Ruby Bartlett in On Her Majesty's Secret Service

I take back what I said about kilts; they’re perfectly practical. How else would the girl he’s about to visit in the previous picture have written her room number with lipstick on his thigh?

Ernst Blofeld in On Her Majesty's Secret Service

Ernst Blofeld, aka “No. 1″ of SPECTRE. First introduced in Dr. No, SPECTRE takes a more prominent role in From Russia With Love. For the next several films, Blofeld is the main baddy, sometimes pictured, sometimes only shown behind a screen. Though he’s absent the trademark cat in OHMSS, I can’t help but notice the peculiar vest and jewelry. The shape of vest is odd enough, add in the cross between a tie clip and a collar bar, and you’ve got yourself a wacky villain get-up.

Draco in On Her Majesty's Secret Service Marc-Ange Draco is a crime lord who allies with Bond. His interaction helps the film take a more romantic, character-centered role – he wants Bond to marry his strong-spirited daughter, in supply for the info Bond desires about Blofeld. Whether that boutonniere is real or fake, Draco nails it.

James Bond and Q in On Her Majesty's Secret Service

James Bond and Gabriele Ferzetti in On Her Majesty's Secret Service

Ascots galore! Not in one scene, but in two! The first is at Q’s summer home, the second is at a bullfight attended by Draco. Notice Bond’s ascot in the second – I’m not sure if that’s informal enough to be called an ascot; I’m going to dare and call it a cravat. (I lack the vocabulary needed to fully describe early 20th century fashions, the last heyday of the cravat) He even goes so far as to wear a pin on it.

Miss Money Penny, M, and Q in On Her Majesty's Secret Service

Draco and Bond in On Her Majesty's Secret Service

I suppose that boutonnieres at a wedding aren’t to uncommon, but I couldn’t help but mention this scene. After years of unbridled flirtation, Miss Moneypenny catches Bond’s hat as he leaves in the car with Contessa Theresa, the daughter of Draco who he’s marrying that day. Just like old times, when Connery would signal his entrance to Moneypenny’s office by expertly tossing his hat onto the hat rack.

I won’t divulge the details of what happens Bond and Theresa drive away. (I know what you’re thinking; it’s not that) I’m not a very good judge of acting, so I won’t rule on whether Lazenby was as much of a botched job as many write. I will agree that the plot was far more interesting and involving than many Bond films. Similarly, Lazenby became far more involved with Theresa than nearly any other Bond girl. If you haven’t seen OHMSS, it’s essential to the Bond franchise. You’ll get to see some expertly-pulled off cravats as well.

Tom from fan site BondMovies.com had this to say:

At first glance, the style of this movie seems a bit bizarre and out of
place compared to Sean Connery’s suave and debonair portrayal of James
Bond.  Seeing George Lazenby as 007 was fairly jarring to the Bond
community and even had to be addressed in the first few minutes of the
movie directy, as the movie makers were worried about audience reaction to
the switch. Obviously, a new successor had to be chosen at some point.

Specifically, Bond’s style throughout this movie ranges from the iconic
007 suit we are accustomed to seeing to the bizarre Scottish kilt outfit
Bond dons as a result of his assuming the identity of Sir William Bray.
This brings up the interesting and rarely mentioned point that the plot of
a James Bond movie can ultimately have an effect on James Bond’s style.

OHMSS’s exotic Swiss location also affects the style of the movie as a
whole, replacing common Bond girl bikinis with skisuits.

Well said Tom. Wearing a kilt…as Lazenby himself said in the beginning, “This never happened to the other guy.”

All stills are taken directly from the film.

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June 23rd, 2010

James Bond Style Review: Dr. No

If someone asks you, “who embodies men’s style?”, James Bond should top the list. Because, when it comes to conservative, well-tailored clothing, “nobody does it better.”

Since I enjoy the Bond movies so very much, I’d thought I’d start a series of pseudo-reviews of Bond movies. I’ll dwell primarily on the style of each one. When it comes to Bond, there’s no better movie to start with than the original, Dr. No.

the first casino scene in dr. no

The first scene of the movie, gambling, soon becomes a trademark of Bond movies. He arrives in a tux, wins a hand of poker, beats a villain or a Bond girl, then leaves, possibly with the later.

Ursala Andress typically steals the attention in the beach scenes, but I’d like to highlight Connery’s polo – look how it fits. A polo should fit snug. The sleeves only go halfway down his arm. Moreover, check out his rolled pants. Practical for the beach, yes. Nowadays, perfectly appropriate for the street. Tom Ford-esque, forty years before Ford designed Bond’s suits.

dr. no, the villain in the first james bond movie

Dr. No, the first Bond villain, sports a Nehru jacket. After all, he is half Chinese. (half German)

jack lorda, playing james leiter in james bond

Felix Leiter, perennial Bond ally and CIA operative’s suit in Dr. No lacks Bond’s tailored fit. I highlight him because of his shades – it would take a lot of guts for a modern man to pull off cat eye glasses.

Dr. No introduces Bond trademarks – the villain, gambling, the Bond girl, Moneypenny. Though the film is short on gadgets, Bond makes do, attaching a single hair to his closet door to track intruders. Unlike later Bond movies, it’s not derailed by ridiculous villains, unbelievable plots or unnecessary allies. It’s as close to a perfect Bond movie as you can get, IMO. It tops my list.

Casino and Ursala Andress photo credit: IMDB

Dr. No photo credit: NY Daily News

Felix Leiter photo credit: davidtyson.com

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