The “slim fit” is in, and that makes me happy. Because it means that men are finally paying attention to how their clothes fit them. And what do you know, we actually have a waist!

Thom Browne, “inventor” of the slim fit.

What is the “slim fit,” exactly? No, you don’t need to wear pants half a foot above your shoes.  What designers make is meant to influence the retailers you buy from. The slim fit is about showing off your middle – the shape of your chest above it, and the shape of your legs below it.

Based on selections from trad American clothier Brooks Brothers, Thom Browne is influencing retailers. BB, traditionally a preppy, conservative staple, has introduced extra slim fit as well. Look at BB’s slim fit chinos:

To achieve this, shirts and jackets closely hug the waist, chest, and arms, while pants are tighter around the legs and break at the top of the shoe. The same applies for dinner jackets. A skinny tie typically accompanies the slim fit.

Everything else essentially stays regular: Shirts still vary in formality and collar design, suits still vary in lapel shape and button arrangement, pants still vary in waist design. Check out these slim fitting shirts from ASOS:

Here’s what I like about the slim fit:

1. It shows that you care about clothing. Baggy clothes are the mark of a man who doesn’t know what he’s doing.
2. It shows off your physique. (Which is why it isn’t for everyone.)
3. It forces men to know how clothes fit their body. Wearing a “sack suit” doesn’t require much courage, just willingness to be measured. If you’re going to wear a suit that hugs your back and chest, you’ve got to learn to notice the tension on the back.

Daniel Craig, though not an early adopter of the slim fit, brought a fit to the silver screen that is achievable by non-movie stars, even those without Craig’s bod.

As mentioned before, there are some downsides to the slim fit. If your middle is not so trim, you probably don’t want to show it off. Moreover, slim is bold – I wouldn’t wear pants that break before my shoes to a job interview.

However, if you’re dressing to impress a lady friend or go out at night with friends, slim fit can set you miles apart, with the help of a couple of inches.

Thom Browne photo credit: LAist

BB chinos photo credit: BB

Shirts photo credit: ASOS

Craig and Jackman photo credit: PromAdvice

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July 20th, 2010 by Michael in Tie Trends | Permalink